So I went to Croatia on Thursday and spent Saturday in Bosnia. Here's the story:
Last semester at AU I became good friends with Damir, the priest who filled in at our church on campus after our priest was reassigned. He moved to Croatia over the summer and I went to visit him. Another friend from AU, Tage, is studying in Denmark this semester and we met in Croatia to hang out for a few days.
I flew from Dublin to Pula, Croatia on Thursday morning. I got to Pula at about 2pm- Damir and Tage met me there around 5:30. (They had to drive in from Zagreb, the capital- about a four-hour drive.) Pula is a gorgeous Roman city on the Adriatic Sea. There is really beautiful amphitheatre in downtown Pula and I met up with them there after wandering the city for a few hours. I spent those hours getting to know the city on my own. I had an interesting time trying to buy face wash- mine was confiscated at security leaving Dublin airport. I went into a store with a sign that said "farmicia", but all the labels were in Croatian and the woman working in the store spoke only Croatian. It took about 20 minutes, but I found one that had it's label in French as well as Croatian so I could understand what it was.
The three of us had dinner at a very cute restaurant in Pula. Croatians always begin a meal with an aperatif- this one was a plum liquor. We shared a meat platter with pork, beef, chicken, and some other things that were so yummy I don't even care what they were. We drank red wine with the meal, and ended it with an herbal liquor that supposedly aids digestion.
The drive back to Zagreb was beautiful- we rode through the mountains and they were covered in snow. Tage and I exchanged a few friendly snowballs at a rest stop before going inside. I had the best hot chocolate ever at that rest stop- it was the hot chocolate version of Turkish coffee- very thick and very yummy.
When we got back to Zagreb Damir dropped Tage and I off at the apartment we were staying at. Damir is the chaplain for the University of Zagreb and as such is entitled to an apartment in the residences. However, he lives with his Salesian community instead so Tage and I stayed in his apartment. After Damir dropped us off, Tage and I went around the corner to an "Irish" pub called the Movie Pub. We tested out some local Croatian beer- Ojzusko- which was pretty good, and took in a round of Croatian karaoke that was absolutely hysterical.
On Friday Damir took us on a walking tour of downtown Zagreb. We saw the cathedral where Damir was ordained, the Croatian government buildings, a few other churches, the oldest 7-day / week market in Europe, and pretty much all of old Zagreb. It's very pretty, and most of the architecture is Austrian inspired. It rained for most of the day, but we got some cooked wine mid-afternoon to warm us up. Apparently that's a Croatian specialty- cooked wine and roasted chestnuts.
We had dinner in an Italian restaurant near the university residences. The food was really good and the atmosphere was even better. Croatians are really just genuinely nice people. We had a Croatian dessert called Policenka (there should be an accent on the c, but I don't know how to make it happen. It's pronounced po-li-chen-ka) that is basically crepes with different fillings and toppings. Mine had a jam filling and a chocolate sauce topping.
After dinner we went to the parish that Damir lived at while he was a seminarian. They were having a chestnut roast. We met some super cool Croatian priests and learned a lot about Catholic life in Croatia. Oh, and we had some homemade wine that was incredible. After the chestnut roast we visited some high school seminarians. (In Croatia they have a few programs for young boys who are considering the priesthood- they go to regular high school but they live in a priestly community and get chance to see if it is really for them.) The priest who runs the program welcomed us into his office and got to know us a bit over some amazing cranberry liquor. Tage and I were asked to talk to them about what it's like to be Catholic in America. We each spoke for a few minutes, then we had a Q & A session. They boys were curious about all sorts of aspects of American life and about our semesters abroad. After the talk they invited us to stay for some refreshments- more wine and more great conversation.
After the high school seminary we went to Damir's parish to drop in on a dance class that he was asked to make an appearance at. We met some of his super-cool Croatian parishoners and we went out to a pub for a drink with them after the class was over. We got to know them and made new friends :-)
Saturday we decided to go to Bosnia for the day. On the way we stopped to see a prison camp where 600 Croatian Catholic priests were kept during the war in the early 90s. It was a very eerie experience. The area around the camp is pretty desolate, except for a floor tile factory. Damir stopped and asked a man for directions. The man took us to the building where the priests were actually kept in cells and gave us a guided tour of the camp. Check out the links to the photos at the end of this blog. He was very nice to us- he even invited us to his house for lunch. We couldn't go though, because we were expected by another priest across the border in Bosnia.
We crossed the border that divides Croatia and Bosnia into a town called Grotiska. (Again, there should be an accent on the s, and it's pronounced Grot-ish-ka) The priest that was expecting us is the pastor for 3 churches that have about 100 parishoners between them. His predecessor was assassinated by the Serbians in 2004, so he doesn't leave the church much. He took us on a little tour of Grotiska, and we saw the Serbian Orthodox Church there. The Serbian Orthodox stand during their service, and the priest goes behind a wall at the front of the room and the parishoners just listen to him do the liturgy. He is the only person considered "holy enough" to be in the presence of the sacrament.
We continued on to Banja Luka, another Serbian town in Bosnia. The road there form Grotiska is lined with mosques, churches, homes with chickens and sheep in the front yards, mine fields, and brothels. Not to mention the fist fight that we witnessed on the side of the road between two men who had been in a car accident. The town itself is what Damir calls "a monument to Socialism." In the main square there is an unfinished building that was started by the communists and was never finished because of the war. We stopped for coffee at a Serbian cafe. There is a Roman fortified castle in the center of town that we took a walk through. The entire experience was very eerie- Bosnia basically has no government, and the only reason it isn't in total chaos is because the UN has peace-keeping forces stationed there. The wounds of the civil war are so real and raw there- I've never seen anything like it. I though that Belfast was scary, but this was just a whole other dimension.
We made it back to Zagreb just in time to have dinner at the house of one of Damir's families. They made us a sort of quiche filled with ham and cheese and topped with roasted chestnuts, veal cutlets, gnocchi, and the best chocolate cake I've ever tasted. The company was even more special- two girls from the the family who are both economics students- very intelligent and very sweet, and another guy from Damir's parish who is also an economics student.
After dinner we went out with them to a pub for a few drinks, then us young'uns went out dancing. We went to a club in downtown Zagreb that played amazingly cheesy 70s dance music- we actually did the YMCA! It was the best time I think I've had in a while- the company was beyond belief.
This morning Tage and I slept in and met up with Damir around 11:30. We went to Croatian mass at his parish at noon. I've never seen so many people in one place. This parish has seven masses on Sunday and they are all packed. There were so many people standing in the aisles that we practically had to climb over them to take communion. There were easily several hundred people- possibly 1,000.
After mass we went for lunch at a very cool Italian restaurant. Tage and I split a "hunter's pizza" that had all sorts of things on it, including a friend egg. But it was very yummy. After lunch it was, unfortunately, time for me to go. I caught a flight to Budapest at 3:40 and a flight from there to Dublin at 7:15.
If you ever get the chance, go to Croatia. It's so beautiful, the people are amazing, and the history is more alive than you could ever imagine. Maybe I'm just an anthro dork, but it was possibly the most fascinating experience I've ever had :-)
Photos: Hrvatska!
Hrvatska! Part II
29 October 2007
15 October 2007
Ali & the DTs
If you haven't heard anything by this band I suggest you get on that quick. I was taken to see them at Pogo- a club on Harcourt Street. Not only is their music spectacular but they have an amazing stage presence- a rare find for a band that was formed less than a year ago.
You can listen to some of their songs on their MySpace page. I'd start with Low Down Daddy. Click on it on the player on the right-hand side of the page.
They are an 8-man blues band from Dublin. The lead guitarist, keyboardist, and harmonica player are all exceptional, but the lead singer is the true star of the show. He is a tiny little man, but his voice is giant and amazing. Plus, he's a really nice guy. Yes- I met him. I spent about two hours getting to know him and the rest of the band backstage after the show. The friend who took me to the show is a good friend of his.
In other news, my classes are great. I'm waiting to hear back from my adviser at American to see if she thinks I should pick up another sociology class. Technically that puts me into overload by Trinity's standards, but there are ways to get around it.
Oh, and I've also decided that I never want to leave here. I'm going to kidnap my mom and about five friends and make them come live here with me because this weekend was just that fantastic!
You can listen to some of their songs on their MySpace page. I'd start with Low Down Daddy. Click on it on the player on the right-hand side of the page.
They are an 8-man blues band from Dublin. The lead guitarist, keyboardist, and harmonica player are all exceptional, but the lead singer is the true star of the show. He is a tiny little man, but his voice is giant and amazing. Plus, he's a really nice guy. Yes- I met him. I spent about two hours getting to know him and the rest of the band backstage after the show. The friend who took me to the show is a good friend of his.
In other news, my classes are great. I'm waiting to hear back from my adviser at American to see if she thinks I should pick up another sociology class. Technically that puts me into overload by Trinity's standards, but there are ways to get around it.
Oh, and I've also decided that I never want to leave here. I'm going to kidnap my mom and about five friends and make them come live here with me because this weekend was just that fantastic!
11 October 2007
First Week of Classes
I'm signed up for two classes: History of Ireland 1500-1800; Ireland and the Wider World, and Sociological Imagination; Anthropology of Gender.
Ireland and the Wider World looks at Ireland's place in the cultural and political context of "the world". (But in Trinity terms, "the world" means western Europe.) There are three different lecturers for the first part of the course. The only one I know of is Ciaran Brady, who I had as a lecturer during the Semester Start-Up Programme. He's an amazing lecturer, which basically means he's a great story teller. He knows just about everything there is to know about Britain and Ireland from about 1300 through 1800. He gave a lecture this afternoon on the Tudor conquest of Ireland in the 16th century. I heard him lecture on the same thing during SSP, but it was equally as entertaining the second time, and I think I retained a lot more of it :-)
My sociology class is similar to a class I took last semester at AU. It covers gendered roles in society and how basically everything we do is classified by gender. I don't really know a whole lot more about it yet because I haven't actually been to a lecture yet- just the course introduction.
The history class is going to be a lot of work though. There are 15 books on the "general introduction to course topics" bibliography, in addition to another 5-12 for each class. I know they don't expect us to read every word of every book listed, but it's a daunting assignment nonetheless. The only assessments are two papers though, for which I've already chosen my topics- Ireland as a frontier country in the early 16th century, and the counter-reformation in Ireland. The first is due in about three weeks, so I've decided to focus mostly on the introductory reading and the reading for the two lectures that cover that particular subject.
Trampoline club is just about the greatest thing ever. I can do a double seat drop and a forward drop now. The other people in the club are really great to hang out with- they're all hysterical. And a lot of them are really good. Apparently they go to nationwide competitions in Cork, Belfast, and Kerry. I think the competitions are all in the spring though, so I won't be able to make it to any of them.
Ireland and the Wider World looks at Ireland's place in the cultural and political context of "the world". (But in Trinity terms, "the world" means western Europe.) There are three different lecturers for the first part of the course. The only one I know of is Ciaran Brady, who I had as a lecturer during the Semester Start-Up Programme. He's an amazing lecturer, which basically means he's a great story teller. He knows just about everything there is to know about Britain and Ireland from about 1300 through 1800. He gave a lecture this afternoon on the Tudor conquest of Ireland in the 16th century. I heard him lecture on the same thing during SSP, but it was equally as entertaining the second time, and I think I retained a lot more of it :-)
My sociology class is similar to a class I took last semester at AU. It covers gendered roles in society and how basically everything we do is classified by gender. I don't really know a whole lot more about it yet because I haven't actually been to a lecture yet- just the course introduction.
The history class is going to be a lot of work though. There are 15 books on the "general introduction to course topics" bibliography, in addition to another 5-12 for each class. I know they don't expect us to read every word of every book listed, but it's a daunting assignment nonetheless. The only assessments are two papers though, for which I've already chosen my topics- Ireland as a frontier country in the early 16th century, and the counter-reformation in Ireland. The first is due in about three weeks, so I've decided to focus mostly on the introductory reading and the reading for the two lectures that cover that particular subject.
Trampoline club is just about the greatest thing ever. I can do a double seat drop and a forward drop now. The other people in the club are really great to hang out with- they're all hysterical. And a lot of them are really good. Apparently they go to nationwide competitions in Cork, Belfast, and Kerry. I think the competitions are all in the spring though, so I won't be able to make it to any of them.
07 October 2007
Fresher's Week Craic (That's Irish for Fun!)
It's Sunday, and the official end to Fresher's Week. So here's the story on all the craziness:
Monday- After a month of us and the dental school students being the only ones on campus, Trinity was suddenly crawling with people. It was simultaneously exciting and disappointing. The prospect of making new friends is exciting, but at the same time it marks the end of our reign over the empty campus. It also reminds me that a third of my time here is already gone. The Societies' Fair began on Monday as well. All the clubs and Societies at College set up tables in Front Square and try to attract members. I joined the Archaeology Society, the Dance Society, and the Trampoline Club. Yup, that's right, Trampoline Club. Sarah and I actually joined together. It's a blast- we go to "training sessions" three nights per week and we get to jump around like five year-olds and learn some pretty cool tricks. The Archaeology Society is having it's first meeting at Doyle's Pub on Tuesday night. Dance Society conflicts with Trampoline Club, which I didn't realise when I joined both of them, so I may have t forgo dancing.
Tuesday- I was supposed to attend two meetings for international students- one from 10-12 and one from 2-4. The one from 10-12 was basically an introduction to campus so I decided to skip it since I've become pretty well acquainted with campus in the past four weeks. I did go to the second, however. It was a seminar on cross cultural adjustment. Five minutes into it realised that I was already pretty well adjusted to life in Dublin, seeing as the subjects that were up for discussion were overcoming jet lag and where to find the grocery store.
Wednesday- I spent pretty much all of Wednesday getting ready for the formal. Sarah, Maureen, Lauren, and I went to the Loft Cafe for brunch, then I came home to start getting ready. John picked me up at 5:45. First on the agenda for the evening was a cocktail reception at his school where I met a ton of his friends. Then we were taken by coach to Dunboyne Castle in Meath. It's a medieval castle that has been renovated into a luxury hotel restaurant. We had another cocktail hour there, and then dinner which was absolutely amazing. After dinner we danced basically for the rest of the night. At about 1am we moved from the dining room to the night club in another part of the hotel where the dancing continued. At about 5am they served us breakfast, then we were brought back to the school by coach and John brought me home. All in all a very fun night!
Thursday- I spent most of Thursday sleeping since I didn't get home from the formal until about 7am. But it was Lauren's birthday so Sarah, Maureen, and I took her to a pub called The Living Room then to Bocciano's fr dinner.
Friday- Friday- I registered for classes. The recommended course load per semester is 25 ECTS (credits) I got 10 ECTS for completing the Semester Start-Up Programme, so I only need 15 more. I'm taking a history class called Ireland and the Wider World that is worth 10 ECTS and a sociology class worth 5 ECTS. Yes, that's correct- I'm taking two classes this semester. In fact, even if I wanted to I wouldn't be allowed to take any more than that. Ireland and the Wider World looks at how Irish culture affects and is affected by the rest of the world- very anthropological. the Sociology class is titled "Sociological Imagination" and is basically about re-thinking patriarchal anthropological perspectives.
Classes technically start tomorrow, but I don't have any classes on Monday. Ireland and the Wider World meets on Tuesday, so here's to the first week of classes!! :)
Monday- After a month of us and the dental school students being the only ones on campus, Trinity was suddenly crawling with people. It was simultaneously exciting and disappointing. The prospect of making new friends is exciting, but at the same time it marks the end of our reign over the empty campus. It also reminds me that a third of my time here is already gone. The Societies' Fair began on Monday as well. All the clubs and Societies at College set up tables in Front Square and try to attract members. I joined the Archaeology Society, the Dance Society, and the Trampoline Club. Yup, that's right, Trampoline Club. Sarah and I actually joined together. It's a blast- we go to "training sessions" three nights per week and we get to jump around like five year-olds and learn some pretty cool tricks. The Archaeology Society is having it's first meeting at Doyle's Pub on Tuesday night. Dance Society conflicts with Trampoline Club, which I didn't realise when I joined both of them, so I may have t forgo dancing.
Tuesday- I was supposed to attend two meetings for international students- one from 10-12 and one from 2-4. The one from 10-12 was basically an introduction to campus so I decided to skip it since I've become pretty well acquainted with campus in the past four weeks. I did go to the second, however. It was a seminar on cross cultural adjustment. Five minutes into it realised that I was already pretty well adjusted to life in Dublin, seeing as the subjects that were up for discussion were overcoming jet lag and where to find the grocery store.
Wednesday- I spent pretty much all of Wednesday getting ready for the formal. Sarah, Maureen, Lauren, and I went to the Loft Cafe for brunch, then I came home to start getting ready. John picked me up at 5:45. First on the agenda for the evening was a cocktail reception at his school where I met a ton of his friends. Then we were taken by coach to Dunboyne Castle in Meath. It's a medieval castle that has been renovated into a luxury hotel restaurant. We had another cocktail hour there, and then dinner which was absolutely amazing. After dinner we danced basically for the rest of the night. At about 1am we moved from the dining room to the night club in another part of the hotel where the dancing continued. At about 5am they served us breakfast, then we were brought back to the school by coach and John brought me home. All in all a very fun night!
Thursday- I spent most of Thursday sleeping since I didn't get home from the formal until about 7am. But it was Lauren's birthday so Sarah, Maureen, and I took her to a pub called The Living Room then to Bocciano's fr dinner.
Friday- Friday- I registered for classes. The recommended course load per semester is 25 ECTS (credits) I got 10 ECTS for completing the Semester Start-Up Programme, so I only need 15 more. I'm taking a history class called Ireland and the Wider World that is worth 10 ECTS and a sociology class worth 5 ECTS. Yes, that's correct- I'm taking two classes this semester. In fact, even if I wanted to I wouldn't be allowed to take any more than that. Ireland and the Wider World looks at how Irish culture affects and is affected by the rest of the world- very anthropological. the Sociology class is titled "Sociological Imagination" and is basically about re-thinking patriarchal anthropological perspectives.
Classes technically start tomorrow, but I don't have any classes on Monday. Ireland and the Wider World meets on Tuesday, so here's to the first week of classes!! :)
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